Nanga Parbat Expedition (8,126-M)

Nanga Parbat Expedition (8126-M)

Nanga Parbat, also known as the “Killer Mountain,” is the ninth highest mountain in the world, with an elevation of 8,126 meters (26,660 feet). It is located in the western Himalayas, in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. The mountain is known for its steep and dangerous terrain, extreme weather conditions, and high fatality rate among climbers.

The first successful ascent of Nanga Parbat was made in 1953 by an Austrian team led by Hermann Buhl. Since then, many climbers from around the world have attempted to climb this peak, but it still remains a difficult and dangerous climb due to its steep and technical terrain, unpredictable weather conditions, and the remoteness of the area. The climbing season for Nanga Parbat is from June to August, which is the peak climbing season in the region. Climbers need to be well-prepared for extreme weather conditions, as the mountain is located in a high-altitude and remote area. The climb to the summit requires a high level of physical and mental fitness, and climbers need to be able to cope with the extreme altitude and harsh weather conditions.

To climb Nanga Parbat, climbers need to be well-equipped with proper gear and equipment, and should be accompanied by experienced guides and support staff. The mountain is known for its high fatality rate, and climbers need to take all necessary safety precautions when attempting to climb it. Despite the challenges, Nanga Parbat is a popular destination for climbers who are drawn to its beauty and the sense of adventure that comes with climbing one of the highest and most difficult mountains in the world. However, it is important to note that Nanga Parbat is a dangerous mountain, and climbers should be well-prepared and take all necessary safety precautions when attempting to climb it.

Nowadays it is not such a killer and there are other peaks that could inherit the nickname (eg Ultar or Batura I). Hermann Buhl’s summit route has only been repeated once (Slovak, 1971) to this day. His ascent marked only the third 8000m ascent after Annapurna I (1950) and Everest and was the only first summit of all the 8000ers to be done without oxygen and of course solo. Most attempts nowadays are via the Westerly Diamir face, which is generally considered to be the easiest and safest with the Kinshofer Route, the normal route.

The most common way to climb the peak is to attack the western side and all routes here lead to “The Japanese Couloir”, which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long southeast ridge to the summit.

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