Baintha Brakk / Latok / Ogre Expedition
The Ogre-Latok-Baintha Peaks are a group of mountain peaks located in the Karakoram mountain range, in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. The group includes Ogre Peak (7,285 meters), Latok I (7,145 meters), and Baintha Brakk or The Ogre II (7,285 meters), as well as several other smaller peaks and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb.
The first successful ascent of The Ogre was made in 1977 by a British-American team led by Doug Scott. The team included Mo Anthoine, Clive Rowland, and Rick Allen, who climbed the peak via the Southeast Ridge. Their ascent was the first time a peak over 7,000 meters had been successfully climbed in the Karakoram without using supplemental oxygen. Since the first ascent, there have been several successful climbs of The Ogre, including a solo ascent by Slovenian climber Tomaz Humar in 2001. However, many attempts on the peak have ended in failure, and there have been several accidents and fatalities over the years.
Climbing The Ogre requires a high level of mountaineering experience, technical skill, and physical fitness. The peak is known for its steep and challenging terrain, including technical ice and mixed climbing. The weather in the Karakoram can also be unpredictable and harsh, adding to the difficulty of the climb.
Anyone considering an attempt on The Ogre should have experience with high-altitude mountaineering and be comfortable with extended periods of time in remote and harsh environments. Thorough planning, preparation, and caution are necessary to ensure the safety of all members of the team.
